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ICELAND
Date: May 2019
Route: Flew Icelandair from Seattle.
All our research on Iceland led us to expect a country that offered spectacular landscapes and sceneries that were other-worldly. Given the limited time we had, we decided to split our visit into two separate trips; this one and one in the future. For this trip, we explored the south-east of the island, a bit of the center, and the eastern coast. The first thing we noticed after we came out of the airport terminal is how clean and pure the air is. Throughout our stay, each day we were reminded of the purity of the two major elements for life; air and water. Water from the tap was better tasting and more pure than any bottled water I’ve ever had. Iceland what I think are the perfect ingredients for a happy and content society; small, homogeneous population, more resources than people, and abundance of land and water. In fact, sheep outnumber people by a vast margin in Iceland.
Our expectations were far exceeded by the beauty of the landscape and the sheer diversity of views, everything form lunar-like terrain to beaches with black sand filled with pieces of iceberg. There are no trees anywhere in Iceland which was very unique to see. The roads and cellular connectivity in Iceland are fantastic and we were never without signal or well-paved roads. The country is designed to be explored by car and the multitude of self-serve hotels make it that much easier. Given it was May, we had 17-hour days and it never really got fully dark. People are generally very friendly and everybody we met spoke perfect English. Food is expensive but not ridiculously so. We had no problem finding vegan or vegetarian food. I would advise to download offline maps for the entire island, so you don’t waste data and battery.
Snæfellsnes Peninsula
We landed in Reykjavik and drove straight to Grundarfjörður to use as a base to explore this peninsula. There is a unique looking mountain here called Kirkjufell and it is one of the most photographed sites in Iceland. The Peninsula itself offers spectacular beaches and small quaint towns. There are some unique hikes in the Snæfellsjökull National Park including one to a bright orange lighthouse. The town of Arnarstapi is small and quaint and has some nice beaches to explore. As with most of Iceland, the drives between places offers spectacular landscapes that will have you reaching for your camera every few minutes.
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Reykjavik
The capital of Iceland and its biggest town, it offers tourists standard big-city fare. Though quaint and very clean, there is no real reason to spend any time there other than maybe an hour or two. The concrete Hallgrimskirkja church and the Harpa Concert Hall are the only two noteworthy places we found. Everything Iceland is outside of Reykjavik.
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Bruarfoss Waterfall
Located about 1.5hrs east of Reykjavik, this is a relatively small waterfall by Icelandic standards. But, the blue color of the water is mesmerizing, and it is well worth a visit. Note that Google directions no longer work as the locals have closed off the road used to access the falls. You now have to park off the main highway and hike about a mile to get to the falls.
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Secret Lagoon
Located in the town of Flúðir, this is a much smaller and less touristy version of the Blue Lagoon and well worth the visit if you are in the area. There is a main pool with lockers and shower areas for men and women. The water is hot and springs and thermal pools all around. You can book your visit here.
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Seljalandsfoss Waterfall
Located right off the ring-road, this is one of the best known falls in Iceland. It is a must-see place on the south coast and stunning to behold. There are some amazing photo opportunities from behind the waterfall, but make sure you bring a poncho as you will get soaked from the walk.
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Reynisfjara Beach
Just before the town of Vik (great coffee/sandwich shop and outlet mall), lies one of Iceland’s most popular beaches. With its black sand, Reynisfjara Beach welcomes you will dramatic beauty and powerful waves. So much so that the latter has warnings to not get close as people have been washed away. The sand, created from heavily eroded volcanic rocks, is really millions of very small pebbles that are black. Just listening to the pounding waves and the mesmerizing tinkle as the waves recede is hypnotic and therapeutic. The other interesting sight here are the basalt columns of rock, called Langsamur, which are unique and otherworldly. It’s easy to climb up on the column and just meditate to nature’s symphony around you.
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Jökulsárlón Iceberg Lagoon and Diamond Beach
This was our favorite place on this entire visit to Iceland. For the Lagoon, there are several spots to part off the main highway (1) and a short hike to the cliff’s edge bring you unforgettable views of the a massive lagoon filled with all manner of calves, pieces of the nearby giant iceberg that have broken off. The shapes and sizes vary but the contract of the dazzling white and glacial blue are stunning. We preferred the views from walking from the highway vs. the touristy and crowded area near the main car park. Although, it is worth going there as you can walk down to the water’s edge.
The aptly named Diamond Beach is where these pieces of ice eventually wash out into the Atlantic. Since the island is volcanic, the sand here is nearly black, providing an excellent canvas for the white and blue chunks of ice. You can walk up to the ice and the beach itself is strewn with ice as far as the eye can see.
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